China Part 2 - Trekking the Great Wall

I ended up on this 'Walk the Great Wall' tour with Explore because my friend, Hannah, was going on it and asked me to come with her. After a few weeks of referring to it as 'our China tour', I gave in and booked the trip too. You can read about the few days I had in China before the tour started on my other blog - China Part 1 - Yuyao, Shanghai & Beijing.

Day 1 - Shanhaiguan

After an impromptu meeting of our tour guide (Peter), our bus driver (Mr Ghow) and our fellow travelers yesterday, we were well acquainted before we hit the road leaving the hustle and bustle of Beijing behind us.

Driving 4 hours east, we headed for our first glimpse of the Great Wall at Lao Long Tou in Shanhaiguan. This is the part of the wall that meets the Bohai Sea and is often referred to as the 'Old Dragon's Head' after the carved dragon's head that used to face out to the ocean.

Despite the fact that the wind was crazy, and we thought we might be blown out to sea, we did a brisk walk along the wall to where it meets the ocean. It was quite a nice view and I can imagine it would be stunning on a warm day. We then went for a walk around the large square city fort and had a go at the military maze that is there. We only hit one dead end before we made it into the centre.

Tip: Even though we were on the cusp of Spring, it was still very cold. So, make sure you pack accordingly, especially if you are heading to Shanhaiguan, the sea air can be brutal!

Happy for the chance to defrost, we all got into the bus and made our way to Jiaoshan, the first mountain that the Great Wall climbs. However, before we did our first official trek on the wall, we popped into the Shanhaiguan Great Wall Museum. Here, we were able to refresh and/or learn about the history of the Wall. I, personally, learnt a lot from the museum visit and really enjoyed looking at the relics. It really was the perfect way to begin this tour before walking in the footsteps of so many before us.

Our first trek wasn't an extensive walk, probably only 3/4km, so it was a lovely way to

ease into the trip. We walked to the 'First Pass under Heaven', one of the principal watch towers and a key passage from North China to Northeast China. It was a cool building and you could see how it was a vantage point for a watch tower in its day. We walked down to the square underneath and as we walked back to the hotel, we thought we would be daring, and bought a couple of Chinese sweets along the way. One of the three were nice, the others were like nothing I have ever tasted or would want to taste again.

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Walking past Lianhuahu Park we spotted a few locals dancing. This is something that is done quite often in parks and squares in China and you can just see the joy it brings! Dinner tonight (and all nights on this trip) was banquet style in a local restaurant. We soon came to realise that they put a lot of chili in their food and, if we didn't know already, we had to pick up how to use chopsticks fast!

Day 2 - Jiaoshan Pass

Today we set off towards the mountains to Jiaoshan Pass, the start of the walk was just on an overgrown dirt mound until we eventually made it to the main gate. However, when we got there, the car park was empty, and the gates were closed! But, never fear, after a quick word with the guard, the large gate door was opened slightly and our group was rushed through, the door promptly closed behind us.

We were all giving our guide quizzical looks, when he explained that due to the dry weather, they had had a fire there a few days prior and this part of the wall was actually closed. Luckily, he was able to persuade the guard that we wouldn't cause any issues and they let us enter. It was fantastic, as we had the wall all to ourselves.

The start of our walk, past the gates, was very well restored and what I had imagined the wall would look like. Then when we started to get further up the mountain, the wall had been less reconstructed and you could tell that it was a lot older, becoming more crumbled as we went on. The walk itself was a bit strenuous as it was uphill the whole way, there was also a point where we had to climb a very narrow ladder up into a watch tower to get to the other side of the wall.

Once we were at the top of Dapingding Peak, the hard work to get there was well worth it as we were treated to a spectacular view of Yansai Lake and Changshou Mountain. We took a seat, had some snacks and soaked up the scenery.

The decent was on a slightly different path, it was very rocky, but it ended up at the gates we had entered at the start of the day. It was nice, after our morning hike to spend some time in the bus watching the scenery pass us by as we made our way to Panjiakou.

Day 3 - Panjiakou

Today we set out for Panjiakou Reservoir, a man-made dam that was built to supply water to the neighbouring towns and for flood control. The dam actually submerges parts of the wall, so in order to explore the wall on either side we had to take a boat. Our guide told us in times of drought you can actually see the submerged sections.

Our first stop was to a very ruined part of the wall, climbing very high up into the hills.

When I say ruined, it was in a very bad shape, with some of the sides of the wall completely missing. It was actually quite dangerous, and I couldn't help but think how safety standards change in different countries.

Halfway up a dog barked and gave us all a big fright. Not ideal when you only have a ruined wall on one side and a very long plummet on the other. However, after a very steep walk/climb up to the top, we took in the view and all made it back down safely. We had lunch at the small restaurant there before we hopped back in our boat and across to another part of the wall.

The next part of the wall wasn't as steep as the first part, yet still as ruined. There was a two watch towers there and the ruins of a small village. It was fascinating walking through these ruins and imagining the people that once lived there. In between the two watch towers was a narrow walkway approximately 8m long and about the width of a ruler with a sheer 5m drop on either side. Some of the group walked across, including my Hannah and the 65 year old in our group. I opted not to do it and asked our guide if anyone had actually fallen off it and without batting an eyelid, he said, 'Yes, quite a few. One last month broke a few bones and it was very difficult to get him to a hospital'. Needless to say, I was glad I didn't do it and told my Hannah about the guy who fell the month prior after she was safely back on the other side.

This afternoon we drove to Luowenyou where would walk along another part of the wall. The very start of this part was extremely steep, and some helpful locals stopped to assist us in scrambling up the wall. Once up, it was like an elevated pathway with, depending on the part of the wall, about 2-3 meter drop on either side. There were no walls on either side, and it was quite steep. The countryside itself was very dry, rocky and rugged.

There were a few locals walking along this part of the wall, some a little over dressed for a hike. We saw one lady wearing heels, who knows how she got up at the start in those! Ironically, they stopped and asked to have a photo with me, maybe I was too under dressed for a hike along The Great Wall?! Either that or they were trying to figure out where I was from. I actually had had a couple of odd stares when travelling on the metro at the start of this trip, one girl even asking me where I was from. When I told her Australia, she looked even more confused. I then explained that I was half Chinese and she was very excited and said, 'Aw, yes, I see some Chinese, but you confuse me'. Talk about honest! She also took a photo with me and then proceeded to send it to her friends.

Sufficiently wrecked from a huge day we traveled on to our hotel, situated in the grounds of the Eastern Qing Tombs. We walked around the main entrance way, called the 'spirit path', lined with animal statues. We didn't walk the whole way though as it stretched over 5km of uneven paving and frankly, we had walked enough for the day. We were able to get some great photos as it the sun began to set for the day.

Day 4 - Eastern Qing Tombs and Huangyaguan

Since we only did a short walk of the entrance yesterday, we got up early to explore the massive Eastern Qing Tombs. With 5 emperors, 15 empresses and 136 concubines buried here, you can see why this is the largest collection of Imperial Tombs in China.

As we walked through, our guide told us about the history of many who were buried at this site. It was very interesting, and I especially liked the story of Empress Dowager Cixi. Never actually ascended to the throne, Cixi managed to rule the Chinese government for 45 years and is said to have been one of the most powerful women in the history of China. This was definitely reflected by her tomb as it is by far one of the most elaborate.

But how did she manage to do this? Well the story goes something like this: As one of the many concubines of Emperor Xianfeng, Cixi happen to bear his only son. The emperor died when the son was just 6 years old, making him the new emperor. Cixi and a senior consort then ruled 'behind the scenes' until her son died at the age of 19. She then adopted her nephew (3 years old at the time) and made him the new emperor, ultimately allowing her to continue to rule.

Full of knowledge of the past, we then drove out to another part of the wall where we walked along for about 3 hours until we got to the town of Huangyaguan. This part of the wall had been restored and was quite different to the last few days on the ruins. The start was up a very steep section to a watch tower and then down to another, it was at this point that we had the choice to continue on further or walk down to our hotel. Seeing as we still had a few hours of sunlight, Hannah and I continued on. Once the wall started to become a bit more ruined, I stopped while Hannah went a little further. The views from where I waited for her to return were stunning and I really enjoyed the time just sitting these, soaking it all in.

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Day 5 - Gubeikou to Jinshanling

Our walk today began in Gubeikou, a part of the wall that has not be restored and passes through small villages and farms. It was a good glimpse into China's rural life as we walked along the rocky path. We also got to see our first Cherry Blossom trees in bloom.

As we continued on our 6 hour hike, going up and down the countryside, passing 16 watch towers along the way, the views just got even more spectacular. Seeing the wall stretch on for what looked like forever, really made me agree that it was quite great (pun intended)!

The further we trekked along the mountain path towards Jinshanling, the more the wall seemed to have been restored. The closer we got, the more people appeared along the wall also. It was very apparent that we were getting closer to a more touristy part of the wall. Finishing up, just before dusk, we walked straight from the wall down into Jinshanling.

Day 6 - Jinshanling and Simatai

Today we began where we finished of the day before, but this time heading in the opposite direction. As mentioned, this is a very popular part of the wall, so there was a lot of people around, especially at the start. The crowds did dwindle out the further we walked.

As part of it was closed to the public, we walked as far as we could towards Simitai, passing, and climbing up steep steps, to 18 watch towers along the way. This part of the wall was only partially restored, and it was interesting to see the different states each watch tower was in.

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After the 18th watch tower, we started our return journey back to Jinshanling. It was a little bit sad as we soaked up the last of the scenery on our last walk along the Great Wall and made our final decent back to our hotel.

As a farewell dinner, tonight we were treated to a lovely meal by some locals who owned one of the souvenir shops in town. They actually squeezed in a table to fit the 18 of us inside the store. It was very cosy, but the food was scrumptious. One dish that stood out for me the most was the delicious, rich, pork belly stew.

All in all, this trip with Explore was amazing. Challenging at times and definitely an eye opener in Chinese culture. I would highly recommend this tour if you really want to delve in and discover The Great Wall of China. Keep in mind, you will definitely need a good level of fitness to be able to participate in this tour.

Day 7 - Beijing

On our way back to Beijing today, we stopped at a silk factory where we were shown how a silkworm produces their silk and how that is then made into silk. It was quite interesting; however we were then left to browser the shop and it seemed like we were expected to buy something. Quite a few of the people in the group did, I didn't though as I didn't feel as though I needed or wanted silk sheets.

We checked into our hotel (the same one we stayed at prior to the tour starting) and relaxed for a bit before we headed to Sanlitun for a drink. Sanlitun is an area of the Chaoyang District, and is a very popular and modern area full of bars, restaurants and shops. Here was had an end of trip cocktail and then, I am ashamed to say, after so many Chinese meals we settled on an Irish pub for dinner where we ate bangers and mash!

Day 8 - Market Stop

With only a few hours between opening time and when we had to leave for our flight, Hannah and I speed shopped around Hongqiao Pearl Market. This market is huge, spanning over 4 stories, it sells anything from shoes, watches, jewellery, clothes, handbags, souvenirs, toys, gadgets to what the name suggests, pearls. We both walked out with new shoes and a handbag each. I also got some cool souvenirs for family.

We rushed back to our hotel, squeezed our new purchases into our luggage and we transfered to the airport and began our journey home.

Interesting Facts and Tips for travelling in China:

• Learn how to use chop sticks, or if that fails, pack a set of plastic cutlery

• Be prepared that beds in China are extremely hard

• Carry a packet of travel tissues in your bag, there isn't always toilet paper

• Most toilets are squat toilets, so make sure your quads are ready! If they have them, the accessible toilets are usually western toilets.

• Bread in China is very, very sweet!

Published 28 Mar 2016